Boulder Canyon Bouldering Guide

Witches' Tower

2010-05-21T08:41:00.000-07:00

The problems on this formation focus on a leaning block of granite on the right side of this relatively obscure formation. Witches' Tower is just downstream from Sherwood Forest, about 7 miles upcanyon from Boulder. It is on the south side of the canyon so a stream crossing is required. The main attraction here is Witch Hunt, V10/11.

Broomstick Block
This is the obvious large block leaning against the main cliff.

Pumpkin Eater V5/6
This problem traverse the arete of the boulder leaning against the cliff, joining Witch Hunt at the top. Bob Horan's description and photo are here.

Witch Hunt V10/11
A Chris Schulte find, this problem starts in the cave formed by the block, starting low and works up the arete on crimps and compression. A good Horan description and photo are here.

The Wisk, V0 climbs a boulder just below.

The Boulder Canyon Bouldering Blog

2010-05-20T05:30:00.001-07:00

Visit this site for continuously updated information on the bouldering available in Boulder Canyon. Use the links to the right to locate problems in given areas. I will be reworking the format of the site and am always open to updates and news. Contact me via this blog, 8a.nu, or Facebook if you have problems you want included. Happy Bouldering!

Eagle Rock

2010-05-20T05:18:00.001-07:00

Eagle Rock is the first really big cliff on the south side of the canyon, about 6 miles from Boulder. It is simplest to park on the north side of the road at an obvious pullout just before the cliff, cross the road and head uphill a bit to the boulders. The creek is very powerful during spring and summer runoff and caution is advised when crossing it.

The Shark Boulder

Locate a shark-shaped boulder close to the creek, just upstream of the approach to Eagle Rock.

Authentic Battle Damage V12 sds or V8 stand

A tough compression-style problem, starting low and working out the boulder's prow. Chris' description is here.

Pirate Boulder

This is a small cliff below Eagle Rock, recognizable for its overhanging west face. The base is almost always in the water.

Davy Jones Footlocker V8
Climb the steep wall to a committing topout over a bad watery landing. Tall and serious.
FA Chris Schulte. Description here.

New Problems, Guidebook section

2009-08-03T13:42:00.001-07:00

A number of new problems have gone up in the past few months, most notably Chris Schulte's lines near Eagle Rock. I also need to research and photograph two new lines that Seth Allred put up near Castle Rock.

Bob Horan has been developing and posting some stuff in the canyon but opinion appears to be mixed. The photos do not show anything spectacular as far as I can tell but new climbs are good to see. Getting back at critics by giving boulder problems names such as Mr Knowitall is one of the particular satisfactions of FAs I suppose.

Some of the material in this blog is now available in print in the new guidebook to Boulder Canyon by Bob D'Antonio available from Wolverine Publishing.

The Graham Boulder

2008-05-27T14:08:00.000-07:00

View of the Graham Boulder from the Southeast

View of the Right Graham Arete

Just east of Boulder Falls is an isolated and small boulder on the south side of the stream that packs a lot of punch. With at least 1 V11, a V10 and a V9/10, this boulder has a lot to offer the visiting climber. However if you are looking for big lines and tall topouts, head elsewhere.

At about 7 miles upcanyon, just across from the Boulder Falls sign, locate a pullout on the south side of the creek. Depending on the water level, it is best to cross in the vicinity of the pullout. Expect cold fast water. The trail is a bit difficult to find at first but trend right and it soon gains talus and goes beneath a cliff band. The boulder is about 100 yards downstream. Depending on the water and bushwhacking, expect 5 to 10 minutes max.

Bulge Left of Left Graham Arete V7/8?
Start on an undercling RH and a sidepull left, just behind the tree. Head right on good edges and terrible feet to pull over just left of the top-out for LGA. I haven't done this yet but it should go.

Left Graham Arete V11
Sit start matched on the obvious undercling on the far left of the north face. The beta varies but ultimately you are aiming for a poor crimp at the lip for your right hand using an undercling with your left. Go left to a better crimp and then up and right. The stand start is a good V4/5 by itself. Very sharp holds and terrible feet. See video here for an interesting sequence that doesn't use the crimpy undercling. My beta is here.

An alternate finish goes left on good edges behind the tree.

North Face Traverse V2/3
Start at a big jug above head height and traverse across the break, moving up and right to the top. Starting from the LGA undercling is V8, probably harder if you can't 't dyno for the jug. A good variation on the traverse is to go straight to a good edge on the lip from the first jug. Maybe V4 for that dyno.

The Fields Problem V6 or 7/8
Start on two head-height crimps about 4 feet right of the ramp. Go straight up on small crimps to the rail. The easier version (V6) does a quick pop off the starting holds to a LH intermediate sharp edge and a go-again to the rail. The harder version moves off the LH sharp edge to a bad RH edge straight up, then to the rail.

The Capps Problem V10 (or harder)
Right again in a shallow scoop feature is a likely V10 problem that starts on two very thin edges and throws to very poor higher edges. Go from these to the rail above. This is rated V9 by some sources but there is no way it's that grade. Any beta/history info is welcome.

Graham Boulder Traverse Project V12+ ?
Start on the Left Graham Arete undercling, then go right to the jug. From there head straight right on thin crimps to the Capps Problem and finish on that. For extra credit figure out a way to join the Right Graham Arete.

Right Graham Arete AKA The Little Sloper That Could V9/10
Grade may depend on your ability at sneaky heelhooks. Start with a poor lefthand fin-like hold and a sloper just right of the arete. Pop left to a bad sloper and then catch a small crimp RH. Go right again to a better edge and grab the rail on the left. Tiny tiny footholds.This has been called V8 by those who should know better. It's not. The V9 rating might apply to crisp conditions.

It seems that a lower right hand for the start is feasible but very hard.

Ryan Silven on the Right Graham Arete

Project V??
Start in the V4 dihedral and traverse left to the arete on impossible slopers. This could be an incredible problem.

Warm-Up Corner V4
This is a difficult warm-up but a classic line. Sit start at the base of the obvious dihedral. Painful climbing follows. Exit straight up.

There is potential for easier problems on the east face but they aren't named or graded.

Lower Dream Canyon

2008-05-27T14:00:00.000-07:00

This area is located just north of Boulder Falls and presents some very high quality problems in a beautiful setting. About 7.5 miles up-canyon is the popular tourist attraction of Boulder Falls. The most popular option is to cut up the slope just west of the falls, head through a small notch and follow the creek a short distance to the Freedom Boulder. There is a small boulder close to the falls themselves that has a problem on it as well.

ACCESS UPDATE: The Boulder Falls approach has been closed by the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks. You will be ticketed if you use this approach. The "legal" approach is from the top of Dream Canyon, which is quite a bit more lengthy and complicated and requires crossing the river. The new guidebook by Bob D'Antonio has info and you can also visit mountainproject.com for a description of an alternate approach. OSMP is concerned about rockfall issues and should be re-opening the area soon.

Note that there are no trespassing signs when approaching from Boulder Falls. Varying degrees of enforcement have been recorded in the past. The actual climbing area appears to be on public land.

Borrowed photo from rocktalus.com. I will replace it later. Another nice photo is here.

Freedom V9/10
This attractive boulder problem tackles the obvious roof on the Freedom boulder. Start matched on a bad set of crimps in the middle of the roof and throw for the lip. Hold the swing, rock over and deal with the worrying slab going left. The V9 is for starting with a foot already out on the lip. The stand start is probably V7.

Freedom Direct V10
Instead of heading left, maneuver up the narrow groove on the right. Taller, scarier and harder than the regular problem.

The Amendment V11
A left sitstart leads across the lip and joins either of the above options. Very sloping holds.

The Right: V12-13? power endurance-y. on the Freedom Boulder. Start as for The Amendment, continue R along the arete with crimps under the roof, and top out (yikes) the bulge at the end, just before the "mini dihedral".

FA and description by Chris Schulte

Cob Rock

2008-05-27T13:37:00.000-07:00

Located in the talus below one of the most popular trad crags in the vicinity, this area is probably the most significant new addition for bouldering in the canyon. Jagged hard landings make many pads and a spotter imperative.

Cross the river at a pull-out about 6.5 miles on the canyon on the south side of the road. High water may make a tyrolean necessary. A landmark is the famous Cob Rock Roof Project, a massive cave front and center in the talus below the north face of the crag. The bulk of the bouldering is found just east of the Roof Project. Another important formation is the Sleepy Hollow Boulder which is found on the west edge of Cob Rock, at the base of the cliff. Descriptions will start with that boulder.

Sleepy Hollow Boulder
Head up the talus to the NW corner of Cob and locate a stunning pillar leaning against the wall. Here's a view of the top of the problem Sleepy Hollow.

Sleepy Hollow V9
Start very low on the pillar and work your way up and left to an obvious jug. Rest up and attack the headwall on thin crimps to a cool 2 finger pocket. More like a route than a problem. The landing is complicated and the falls could be serious. Bring multiple pads and a spotter or two.

Headless Horseman V10
Same start as Sleepy Hollow but head out right to the sloping arete and finish up that. Same landing issues as Sleepy Hollow.

East Side Boulders
To find these, simply head east a few dozen yards along the path past the roof project. The Hug is just at the edge of the trees, about half-height in the photo.

The Hug Boulder
This boulder is found uphill and east of the Cob Roof Boulder. It is easily distinguished by a steep undercut base and an obvious flat hold at the lip. Below is a photo.

The Hug V11
Start very low with a RH on a good sidepull and the LH on the arete. Throw to the lip and work out a very strenuous and technical mantel going right. Very uneven landing. Bring lots of pads.

EZ Harrison on the problem

Left Hug V8
Same start as the Hug but move left along the obvious cracks to finish. Same landing issues.

The Game V16
This is the obvious projecting overhang at the base of the talus. By any standard, the most obvious last great problem on the Front Range. Many worked on this behemoth walked away empty handed. Big, steep, with terrible holds and a bad landing.

Daniel Woods did the FA of this impressive line in February 2010, providing the Front Range with a world class testpiece that you can literally throw a stone at from the road.

Contribute Your Comments

2008-05-27T11:56:00.001-07:00

This is a post where you can leave comments about problems, grades, FA names and dates or other relevant info.

The Nursing Home

2008-05-27T10:52:00.000-07:00

The Nursing Home is a low cliff band just west of the Barrio about a quarter of a mile. A large pull-out/RTD stop sits just across the road providing easy access. Look for a steep dark wall running along the base. You can also use the big pull-out to head back downstream to the Barrio

This wall is primarily famous for a problem currently known as Freak Brothers, a steep clean line on the left. However a number of other more moderate problems exist further right as well as a long traverse. Topping out is problematic owing to the extensive low-angle slab above so judicious retreat options include downclimbing adjacent features or jumping.

Where the Monkey Sleeps V10/11
FA Jay Droeger mid 90s

Jay had this striking thin seam pegged at V8. Tyler Landman flashed it, thinking it was new and graded it V11, naming it Freak Brothers II after a problem in Switzerland. Taller folks may find it V10, shorter people more like V11. Find a striking black wall just right of where the approach trail meets the cliff band. Start at the obvious poor break and stretch left to a terrible seam. Reach right to a bad crimp, reset and bump left, aiming for a jug. Jump or climb down on the left. A decent landing but a spotter is advised due to the slope below the problem.

Freak Accident V12
FA Tyler Landman 2008
Tyler Landman added a start coming in from the right starting on the obvious vertical crack. Lousy feet and small awkward grips lead to the previous problem. Here's the video. Registration required at the site, which is well worth the time.

For even fuller value tack on the whole traverse of the cliff band. This could be quite hard.

Nursing Home Traverse V?
More info needed here re: difficulty and FA

A lengthy excursion across the entire cliff band. Waiting for specifics on grade.

Nip and Tuck and the Barrio

2008-05-27T10:39:00.000-07:00

This cliff has long been a favorite of local climbers, not least because of roadside access to a lengthy and steep traverse, the Barrio. Caddis V9/10 also gained a measure of notoriety as the first 5.13c ever soloed, notoriety that didn't last owing to the low crux.

Finding the cliff is very easy. Just after the Narrows, about 10 miles up the canyon, Nip and Tuck is seen on the right just off the road. The first feature is an obvious overhung panel with a crack. This is the location for routes such as Gyro Captain, Mr. Spiffy, and Mr. Stiffy as well as the problem Caddis Continuing west you encounter some slabby walls at the base of which are located a few problems such as Ulysses' Journey V8. The Barrio is located around the corner, further west, and is an obvious right angling slot.

Take care with both parking and pulling out as the cliff is on a bend.

Tuck Bouldering

Miscellaneous low problems can be arranged on the short wall/slab right of the overhang.

Mr Spiffy Direct Start V9
FA?
Start up the obvious vertical crack at the base of the overhanging panel. The crux is getting established with your feet above the horizontal crack. After achieving this head up for death or glory on Gyro Captain or Mr Spiffy, 12b and 13a (toprope practice advised), or jump, or move right to the ledge

Caddis V10
FA Charlie Bentley

This well-known problem starts on the left arete of the striking overhanging panel, just a few yards from the road. Start standing and execute hard crimpy moves to a break and better holds. Decision time. Most will jump or otherwise bail. The bold will continue up the flake to the easier climbing above. You can also rope up for this at 13b/c, though the crux is still the boulder problem.

Nip Bouldering

The next problems are found about 100 yards west, upstream, near the left end of Nip, the left of the two roadside crags

Sloping Arete V5(?)
Start sitting on the underclings and work your way up the arete. It appears that you can step left and down climb the ramp on the side. Otherwise be prepared to go up a ways.

Ulysses Journey V8? (Justin Jaeger's description--more specifics welcome)
FA Matt Beebe
"Immediately to the right of the unknown pin scar dihedral, ascend the slightly overhanging face utilizing thin sharp crimps in a faint seam trending left towards the same finishing ledge of the dihedral problem with an equally perplexing blank section before getting there. While the landing of this problem is fairly good, its height makes the upper section committing."

This problem looks very serious with a complex retreat route. I have some doubts about the V8 rating.

The Dihedral Problem V?
A serious and steep undertaking out the overhanging dihedral left of UJ. More info needed.

The Barrio

Looking up the slot of the Barrio

This area is found just around the corner from Nip and is readily recognized by a low diagonaling slot that runs about 50 feet or more from left to right. The full traverse is reckoned to be in the V10 range with variations possible. Problems that go directly through the slot have been done. See Justin's descriptions below. Be aware that at the top of the slot, there is a 40 foot drop behind you. It seems clear that this feature has not had the full Morrison treatment in terms of hard contrived problems so let me know what you find.

"Barrio Traverse V8/10ish
Start on the low left side of the long overhang and traverse right. The ground follows you up like every typical Boulder-area traverse! Top out/finish at the far right of the overhang feature after approximately a bazillion moves."

Barrio Direct Life V8ish
An old chalk arrow used to point the way for this somewhat contrived, vertical problem [it's been brushed since]. Not quite half way through the traverse, locate a unique scooped incut edge in an otherwise blank section of the steep roof. This full-pad edge fits all four fingers and points towards the right. Once you've located this hold, scuttle under the overhang, find obvious starting holds, and sit start into this scoop/edge with your right hand, via a burly cross over. Work feet up and throw left to a distant and fairly blind jug section. Slopers may be used as intermediates. Continue up via good incut edges trending slightly right to victory jugs. Drop off or top out the chossy cliff.

Barrio Direct Right V.hardish. For this variation, sit start so as to get the scoop edge with your left hand and power up on difficult holds to reach fairly thin edges that lead slightly back left towards the finish of 'direct left.' After the crux [moving up off the left hand scoop edge], avoid moving into the jugs off right."

Castle Rock Area Bouldering

2008-05-22T13:48:00.000-07:00

Castle Rock Area

A plethora of bouldering opportunities await in the vicinity of Castle Rock. This area has been transformed into one of the centers of hard bouldering on the Front Range with problems such as Midnight Express and Cage Free and its ease of access makes it a natural place to visit.

Drive west up the canyon roughly 12 miles from Boulder to an obvious 200'+ formation on the left. Turn left (be careful!) onto a dirt road that circles back east. Park on the west end to access Hardboiled and further east for the Citadel and other problems. The bridge just below Country Club Crack is a useful landmark.

The Egg

The Egg area. Nintendo is the short arete at the top, Hardboiled is just below on the smooth slab.

The starting holds for Hardboiled are the two lowest chalked ones in the photo. Not my tick marks...

This boulder is small but desirable, holding a very difficult but doable V9/11. This curious grade is due to the use of kneebarring on the lower half of the problem. To locate it, head west along the road about 200 yards from Castle Rock and look for low water that allows a stream crossing. The log jam has been cleared away. If the water is very low, you can cross at the parking area but this may be trespassing and should be avoided. From the log crossing, move up the slope and trend west across talus beneath several popular ice climbs. Just west of the talus is the Egg, invisible until you go around and see it from the west. Though not very tall, the landing area is very rocky--bring as many pads as you can. It starts coming into the sun at about 9:30.

1. Hardboiled V9/11
A Boulder Canyon classic though dismissed by some as scrunchy and weird. Start low in the obvious cave at a fin feature for the left hand and gun for the lip. A potentially heartbreaking slab section awaits. To bring the grade down considerably, strap a kneepad on your right leg and work the two or three kneebars that are available. Do not claim V11 for this method.
FA Daniel Woods

2. Softboiled V7/8
Start with your right hand on the edge just above the lip and your left hand on the good edge below it. Finish as for HB. Starting on the right, stepping off the slab to do the end is probably V3/4.

3. Replacement Killers V10/11 Start as for Hardboiled but move left up the arete. Heelhook action and slopers. The good left sidepull is history as of May 2010. The same kneebarring possibilities for Hardboiled reduce this problem to V10. See video for this problem.
FA Chris Schulte

4. Southwest Arete VB
From the obvious incut ledge, do a surprisingly tricky mantle to the top.

4. The South Face V3
Start just right of the arete on two small holds on the South Face. Reach right to a sharp crimp and make a dicey reach to a poor crimp up and left. Only two moves but miserable feet.

5. Nintendo V4
This climbs the striking but short double arete on the boulder above the Egg. Sitstart. Watch a fall to the left as it could be very dangerous. Mantling direct would be harder and scary, otherwise traverse off right.

6. The North Slab V0
Climb the nice edges on the slab just north of the Egg. Tree branches make topping out difficult.

There is a sick-looking project on the boulder just north/below of the Egg. Also the TR seam with chalk-marks just south of the egg on the main cliff looks desperate.

The Citadel Boulder

A view of the boulder from the bridge below Country Club Crack.

This is the obvious large boulder on the north bank of the creek, just east of the bridge below Country Club Crack. It holds a number of difficult testpieces including the namesake V8, Surface Tension V10, and Cage Free V13.

It can be approached from just east of Castle Rock, just before the guardrail starts, by heading down a steep slope to the creek. During low water, the creek can be easily crossed as well from the road just past Country Club Crack.

Standard Bulge V5
Though the history and name of this problem are unknown, its committing moves and quality rock make it an instant classic. On the side opposite from the stream, start on sidepull/undercling crimpers at chest level, pull to more crimps in the bulge and slap oppositional slopers before a committing toss to the good sloper lip. The disconcerting rock in the landing pads up well.
(Justin J's description from FRB)

There is a sit-start to this as well, coming in from the Citadel that is V7

The Citadel V8
From a low start, climb the NW arete on crimpy slopers . Technical and slippery.
FA Will Lemaire

Free Range V13
Sit-start low on a pinch just right of the arete, move to a crimp with the right hand and traverse right into Cage Free. Very technical, powerful.
FA Chris Schulte
Carlo Traversi on Free Range

Cage Free V11
Just right of the tree, find a terrible sidepull for the left hand. Pull on a bit down and to the right on an OK undercling, reach left for the sidepull and throw for the flat lip with the right hand. One move but it's a long one.
FA Johnny Goicoechea after significant hold breakage, Wade David previous FA

Surface Tension V10
Start low on the SE arete, over the creek, on an obvious flake. Move up to the arete (heelhook on the left) and finish. Best to wait for low water on this one.
FA Wade David, named Excite Bike, rechristened by Chris Schulte and the name stuck. Funny how that works...

Hit Hard Tactics V7

FA: Justin Jaeger, 2004. This is the stand version of Surface Tension.

The Citadel Project V13+
Start on the crimps of Surface Tension and head left to join Cage Free. Word is that the moves all go. This winter?

The Midnight Express Boulder

This is a large boulder/outcropping just south of Castle, Rock uphill from the bridge. Midnight Express (V14) starts low on the right and goes out the obvious flake. The crack to the left is Trainspotting (V12)

Midnight Express V14
FA Tyler Landman November 2007. Midnight Express offers very powerful climbing low and bold moves at the top. Start low on a flake LH and a poor pinch RH. Do a powerful cross to a sharp undercling LH. Reach right along the flake to an OK pinch, catch a thin crimp LH and go very big LH to the shelf. From here the problem gets much easier but a huge drop presents itself as you approach the lip.

A toprope anchor is in place to ease working this out. Otherwise bring many pads and spotters.

Video from moonclimbing.com.

Blog Description

2008-05-21T16:46:00.000-07:00

In the next few months I will be compiling information about the bouldering opportunities available in Boulder Canyon. Given its proximity to the city it is curious that no comprehensive online guide has emerged. The first entry will be Castle Rock and the Graham Arete boulder but I will be actively searching out info. Please feel free to post info or contact me via Mountain Project.