Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Located in the talus below one of the most popular trad crags in the vicinity, this area is probably the most significant new addition for bouldering in the canyon. Jagged hard landings make many pads and a spotter imperative.
Cross the river at a pull-out about 6.5 miles on the canyon on the south side of the road. High water may make a tyrolean necessary. A landmark is the famous Cob Rock Roof Project, a massive cave front and center in the talus below the north face of the crag. The bulk of the bouldering is found just east of the Roof Project. Another important formation is the Sleepy Hollow Boulder which is found on the west edge of Cob Rock, at the base of the cliff. Descriptions will start with that boulder.
Sleepy Hollow Boulder
Head up the talus to the NW corner of Cob and locate a stunning pillar leaning against the wall. Here's a view of the top of the problem Sleepy Hollow.
Sleepy Hollow V9
Start very low on the pillar and work your way up and left to an obvious jug. Rest up and attack the headwall on thin crimps to a cool 2 finger pocket. More like a route than a problem. The landing is complicated and the falls could be serious. Bring multiple pads and a spotter or two.
Headless Horseman V10
Same start as Sleepy Hollow but head out right to the sloping arete and finish up that. Same landing issues as Sleepy Hollow.
East Side Boulders
To find these, simply head east a few dozen yards along the path past the roof project. The Hug is just at the edge of the trees, about half-height in the photo.
The Hug Boulder
This boulder is found uphill and east of the Cob Roof Boulder. It is easily distinguished by a steep undercut base and an obvious flat hold at the lip. Below is a photo.
The Hug V11
Start very low with a RH on a good sidepull and the LH on the arete. Throw to the lip and work out a very strenuous and technical mantel going right. Very uneven landing. Bring lots of pads.
EZ Harrison on the problem
Left Hug V8
Same start as the Hug but move left along the obvious cracks to finish. Same landing issues.
The Game V16
This is the obvious projecting overhang at the base of the talus. By any standard, the most obvious last great problem on the Front Range. Many worked on this behemoth walked away empty handed. Big, steep, with terrible holds and a bad landing.
Daniel Woods did the FA of this impressive line in February 2010, providing the Front Range with a world class testpiece that you can literally throw a stone at from the road.