The Boulder Canyon Bouldering Blog

Visit this site for continuously updated information on the bouldering available in Boulder Canyon. Use the links to the right to locate problems in given areas. I will be reworking the format of the site and am always open to updates and news. Contact me via this blog,, or Facebook if you have problems you want included. Happy Bouldering!

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Lower Dream Canyon

This area is located just north of Boulder Falls and presents some very high quality problems in a beautiful setting. About 7.5 miles up-canyon is the popular tourist attraction of Boulder Falls. The most popular option is to cut up the slope just west of the falls, head through a small notch and follow the creek a short distance to the Freedom Boulder. There is a small boulder close to the falls themselves that has a problem on it as well.

ACCESS UPDATE: The Boulder Falls approach has been closed by the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks. You will be ticketed if you use this approach. The "legal" approach is from the top of Dream Canyon, which is quite a bit more lengthy and complicated and requires crossing the river. The new guidebook by Bob D'Antonio has info and you can also visit for a description of an alternate approach. OSMP is concerned about rockfall issues and should be re-opening the area soon.

Note that there are no trespassing signs when approaching from Boulder Falls. Varying degrees of enforcement have been recorded in the past. The actual climbing area appears to be on public land.

Borrowed photo from I will replace it later. Another nice photo is here.

Freedom V9/10
This attractive boulder problem tackles the obvious roof on the Freedom boulder. Start matched on a bad set of crimps in the middle of the roof and throw for the lip. Hold the swing, rock over and deal with the worrying slab going left. The V9 is for starting with a foot already out on the lip. The stand start is probably V7.

Freedom Direct V10
Instead of heading left, maneuver up the narrow groove on the right. Taller, scarier and harder than the regular problem.

The Amendment V11
A left sitstart leads across the lip and joins either of the above options. Very sloping holds.

The Right: V12-13? power endurance-y. on the Freedom Boulder. Start as for The Amendment, continue R along the arete with crimps under the roof, and top out (yikes) the bulge at the end, just before the "mini dihedral".

FA and description by Chris Schulte

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