Tuesday, May 27, 2008
The Graham Boulder
View of the Graham Boulder from the Southeast
View of the Right Graham Arete
Just east of Boulder Falls is an isolated and small boulder on the south side of the stream that packs a lot of punch. With at least 1 V11, a V10 and a V9/10, this boulder has a lot to offer the visiting climber. However if you are looking for big lines and tall topouts, head elsewhere.
At about 7 miles upcanyon, just across from the Boulder Falls sign, locate a pullout on the south side of the creek. Depending on the water level, it is best to cross in the vicinity of the pullout. Expect cold fast water. The trail is a bit difficult to find at first but trend right and it soon gains talus and goes beneath a cliff band. The boulder is about 100 yards downstream. Depending on the water and bushwhacking, expect 5 to 10 minutes max.
Bulge Left of Left Graham Arete V7/8?
Start on an undercling RH and a sidepull left, just behind the tree. Head right on good edges and terrible feet to pull over just left of the top-out for LGA. I haven't done this yet but it should go.
Left Graham Arete V11
Sit start matched on the obvious undercling on the far left of the north face. The beta varies but ultimately you are aiming for a poor crimp at the lip for your right hand using an undercling with your left. Go left to a better crimp and then up and right. The stand start is a good V4/5 by itself. Very sharp holds and terrible feet. See video here for an interesting sequence that doesn't use the crimpy undercling. My beta is here.
An alternate finish goes left on good edges behind the tree.
North Face Traverse V2/3
Start at a big jug above head height and traverse across the break, moving up and right to the top. Starting from the LGA undercling is V8, probably harder if you can't 't dyno for the jug. A good variation on the traverse is to go straight to a good edge on the lip from the first jug. Maybe V4 for that dyno.
The Fields Problem V6 or 7/8
Start on two head-height crimps about 4 feet right of the ramp. Go straight up on small crimps to the rail. The easier version (V6) does a quick pop off the starting holds to a LH intermediate sharp edge and a go-again to the rail. The harder version moves off the LH sharp edge to a bad RH edge straight up, then to the rail.
The Capps Problem V10 (or harder)
Right again in a shallow scoop feature is a likely V10 problem that starts on two very thin edges and throws to very poor higher edges. Go from these to the rail above. This is rated V9 by some sources but there is no way it's that grade. Any beta/history info is welcome.
Graham Boulder Traverse Project V12+ ?
Start on the Left Graham Arete undercling, then go right to the jug. From there head straight right on thin crimps to the Capps Problem and finish on that. For extra credit figure out a way to join the Right Graham Arete.
Right Graham Arete AKA The Little Sloper That Could V9/10
Grade may depend on your ability at sneaky heelhooks. Start with a poor lefthand fin-like hold and a sloper just right of the arete. Pop left to a bad sloper and then catch a small crimp RH. Go right again to a better edge and grab the rail on the left. Tiny tiny footholds.This has been called V8 by those who should know better. It's not. The V9 rating might apply to crisp conditions.
It seems that a lower right hand for the start is feasible but very hard.
Ryan Silven on the Right Graham Arete
Start in the V4 dihedral and traverse left to the arete on impossible slopers. This could be an incredible problem.
Warm-Up Corner V4
This is a difficult warm-up but a classic line. Sit start at the base of the obvious dihedral. Painful climbing follows. Exit straight up.
There is potential for easier problems on the east face but they aren't named or graded.